You fell in love with a plant at our store and brought it home. With spring fast approaching are you not quite sure how to repot a plant? Don’t worry, we’ve got you covered!


Happy Almost Spring! We are all excited by the prospects of warmth and longer hours of sunshine, and so are our indoor plant friends. When the weather warms up, our plants start to grow faster. Just a little bit of a science-class refresher: Plants use the sun for photosynthesis. With more sun, there is more food production, meaning plants grow faster. Just like little growing children, when plants grow faster, then need more space and more food! Today we are going to walk you through the steps on how to repot a plant (or multiple if you’re like us!)

Whenever I get ready to repot my plants, I choose a nice sunny warm day. I put on my “I don’t care if I get dirty” pants, whip out my gardening gloves, and take all of my plants outside. Of course, if space is an issue, you can re-pot all of your plants on your kitchen table. Wherever you find space, just make sure to lay out some newspaper or a tarp! 

Soil Needs

The first thing you will need is fresh potting soil. There are an array of soils that you can choose from can be daunting, especially at the beginning of gardening season. Look for bags that say words like “potting mix” “indoor potting soil” “tropical plant mix” and “succulent and cacti plant soil”. Do not use garden soil or outdoor soils. Indoor mixes are formulated to provide nutrients that cannot be found in our natural environment as well as materials to help drainage. Getting the right type is key! Tropical plants can use a general potting soil, whereas cacti and succulent plants need a dryer, more well-draining soil. Orchids will need a special type of bark. 

Choosing The Pot

The next step is finding the right pot for your plants. The rule of thumb is: only increase 1-2 inches in diameter and height. If you bought your plant and it’s still in the plastic nursery pot, it should say its size. We tend to carry plants in 4 inch, 6 inch, 8 inch, 10 inch or 12 inch. This refers to the pot diameter. So, if it is a 4 inch pot, look for a 5 or 6 inch pot that is just a little bit deeper than the plant you currently have!

Some plants, like snake or ZZ plants are very slow growing and can stay in the same pot for more than a year. Some plants, like calathea, dracaena, and polka dot plants grow faster and will definitely prefer a new pot. But, if you see roots coming out of the drainage holes or of the tops of the soil, then it is definitely time! 

Time to Get Your Hands Dirty!

Okay, now we have soil and pots. Now what? Fill up your new planter one-third of the way with fresh soil. Make sure the soil is moist but not soaking wet. If it is dry, spritz it with some water first. Gently remove the plant from its original container (sometimes I give the pot a gentle squeeze or tip it on its side) and massage the roots a bit. If they are extremely root bound (aka coming out of the holes as previously mentioned) they will enjoy getting to breathe. You do not need to take off all of the old soil, just whatever naturally falls out is fine.

Place your plant in the new pot, and fill around the plant with new soil. Give it a gentle push to make sure your plant is stable in the new planter, and top off with enough loose soil so that the plant is just 1 inch below the top of the planter. Since you started with fresh, moist soil you will not have to water immediately. Let the plant adjust to its new home for a few days and check back often. You may notice that you do not have to water as frequently when they move to larger pots! 


Last but not least! Fertilizer. There are many types for plants, but I always choose an organic fertilizer that is good for all plant types (especially if you have a lot, like me!) Every plant has different fertilizing needs, so do some research about your plant beforehand. Some require once a month, and some prefer one time a week. It is important to find out exactly what types of plants you have and learn their unique characteristics and needs. 

We will be joining you in spirit as we repot our personal plants and those at our sister venue The Tannery Barn this spring. We hope this post has helped you feel confident in how to repot a plant and peaked your interest on fertilizer possibilities. May your spring is filled with sunshine, soil, plants and flowers! 

For any questions or additional help on how to repot a plant, you can always contact us by calling the store or email us at for plant care advice 🙂 We are always here to help!

Hey! For all of our pet loving Fleurettes, we felt like it was very important to answer the biggest question: What plants and flowers are safe for my pets?

Almost every day we get this question, so we decided to put together a GENERAL list of both plants and flowers (based on plants and flowers we frequently have – this is not a COMPLETE list) that you can reference whenever you need to*:

*if your dog or cat ingests something and you are unsure or there are adverse reactions, please call your vet! We are not medical professionals and every animal reacts differently!


  • African Violet
  • Aluminum plant
  • Bamboo
  • Palms
  • Polkadot Plant / Hypoestes
  • Peperomia
  • Spider plant / chlorophytum
  • Christmas cactus
  • Aloe vera (the skin may be toxic but the gel is safe)
  • Echeveria (succulents)
  • Zebra Haworthia
  • ferns  (only TRUE ferns)
  • bromeliad 
  • Orchid
  • Prayer plant / maranta
  • Calathea
  • Friendship plant / pilea peperomioides
  • Cast iron plant
  • Lipstick plant
  • Hoya 
  • Club moss
  • Purple passion vine

In bold are plants that we frequently carry or have today! But we are able to special order most plants based on availability. We are happy to be on the constant look out for you and your pet’s needs.


  • Baby’s breath
  • Celosia
  • Orchid
  • Snapdragon
  • Madagascar Jasmine / wax flower
  • Pincushion flower
  • Globe thistle
  • Rose
  • Rosemary
  • Sunflowers
  • Zinnias
  • Lisianthus
  • Statice
  • Asters
  • Freesia 
  • Liatris
  • Olive
  • Veronica
  • Limonium
  • Stock
  • Pussy willow
  • Astilbe
  • Trachelium
  • Greenbells

Our cut stem inventory is constantly changing, but we are able to get most of these flowers regularly! Please call us for specific requests and we will do our best to make you something pet-friendly and beautiful!

The following are best kept out of a pet friendly home as they are toxic to our four legged friends. If already within your home, use your best judgement in keeping them out of reach (including any fallen petals or leaves) from your pets.


  • Alocasia 
  • Arrowhead Plant / Nephthytis 
  • Asparagus fern (not a TRUE fern)
  • Begonias (all types – including Rex* tubers and rhizomes are toxic but leaves and flowers are not)
  • Bird of Paradise (flower)
  • Peace lily
  • Jade
  • Philodendron, cordatum
  • Sage palm
  • Fiddle Leaf Fig / Ficus Lyrata
  • ALL Ficus plants
  • Sansevieria
  • Anthurium
  • Dieffenbachia
  • Chinese evergreen / Aglaonema 
  • Paperwhites
  • Dracaena
  • Pothos
  • Hawaiian Ti
  • Wandering Jew / Tradescantia
  • Poinsettia


  • Peony
  • Amaryllis
  • Astrantia
  • Campanula bells
  • Delphinium
  • Carnation
  • Poinsettia
  • Calla Lily
  • All Lilies
  • Lily of the Valley
  • Borage
  • Clematis
  • Dahlia
  • Daffodil
  • Sweet Pea
  • Daisy
  • Tulips
  • Nandina
  • Allium
  • Eucalyptus
  • Foxglove
  • Hydrangea
  • Larkspur
  • Laurel
  • Ranunculus 
  • Ruscus

**Some plants that are listed as toxic may only show negative symptoms when ingested at extremely large quantities. Please use your best judgement when bringing these houseplants around your furry friends.

In case of an emergency call your veterinarian.

Sources: ASPCA,, PetMD


ASPCA Animal Poison Control Hotline (24 HRS) (888) 426-4435

Pet+ER – Towson (24 HRS) 1209 Cromwell Bridge Road, Towson, MD 21286 (410) 252-8387

Pet+ER – Columbia (24 HRS)  10000 Old Columbia Road, Columbia, MD 21046 (410) 441-3304

Looking for tips to care for your houseplants? Check out our first blog post here!

Welcome to our first blog post! We are so excited that you are here and are so looking forward to sharing our plant and flower knowledge with you! For our very first post we wanted to kick it off by discussing the very important basics.

All plants have unique and individual needs which vary between species and home, these are the needs that they all have in common:

  • Water
  • Light
  • Nutrients 

Let’s look at our house plants into three easy categories: tropicals, desert plants and air plants. 


Tropicals tend to want to have a consistent watering schedule. A good rule of thumb is for smaller pots (6 inch pot size and smaller) to water when the top 2 inches of soil are dry. For larger potted plants (8 inches or larger) water fully when the top half of the soil is dryer. You can check this using a moisture meter or if you can test it with your finger. If you stick your finger into the soil 2 knuckles in and soil does not stick to it, then the soil is dry. They also love humidity, so staying away from heat vents is best. You can even mist your tropicals once a day to make them even happier. 

Cacti and succulents can survive with much less frequent waterings. When they are completely dry, then they can get a complete watering. This mocks the desert climate – mostly dry and a drenching rain every few weeks! Cacti can survive longer periods of drought than succulents. If your succulent leaves start to look wrinkly, then increase your watering schedule. 

Air Plants are very unique and take in most of their water through their leaves. Mist them once or twice a day, and give them a full watering every 1-2 weeks. I usually fill a bowl or bucket with water and dunk my air plants (root side up) and let them soak for an hour. Make sure the shake them out very well before placing them root side down in your desired air plant to avoid any rotting in their roots. 


Tropicals vary in their lighting needs (from low to bright), but all tropicals need INDIRECT light. This means if there is a direct stream of light coming in through the window, it should not be directly in it, but near it. Filtered light using sheer drapes is great!

Cacti and succulents require DIRECT light. South or West facing windows are ideal for desert plants. Find your brightest room with the sunniest window, and this will be their favorite spot in the house. 

Air Plants need bright, but INDIRECT light. So, think about that room for your cacti and succulents, but most of them just a little bit further from the window out of the direct stream of light. Their leaves can scorch in too much direct light (it acts like a magnifying glass).


Nutrients come from the soil as well as fertilizers we can add in the spring and summer. (Don’t worry – we will dive a bit deeper into fertilizing this spring!) 

Tropicals need a more nutrient dense, moisture retaining potting soil. If you are shopping at your local plant store or hardware store, look for a general potting soil. I personally avoid “moisture control” potting mix because if you are a heavy waterer, then you may run into a root rot issue. If you want to make your own potting mix for tropicals, a general recipe is 1 part peat moss, 1 part perlite or vermiculite, to 1 part garden soil. When we dive deeper into specific species, we will see that some may need more drainage than others but a general potting soil is always a good start (and google may help!).

Cacti and succulents need very fast drying and high drainage soil. They will still receive their nutrients from the soil but there is a higher ratio of sand in  most of the potting mixes you see in stores. 

Air Plants are EPIPHYTIC meaning they grow outside of soil. Sometimes you may see them growing on tree branches. Since they are more tropical plants, they will receive most of their nutrients from the air. We can use an air plant fertilizer in the spring and summer but all together they are very low – maintenance!

Stay tuned for our next newsletter for the latest store updates and our next blog post!

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